Day 32: Palas de Rei to Santa Irene

My fastest hiking partner yet! 

This was my haul-ass day. My original plan called for me to be in Santiago de Compostela by Thursday but I'd lost ground by half a day. My unexpected rest day back in Ponferrada cost me about ten miles that I had to make up today. I spoke to the hostel manager about how best to do this . He suggested I skip the industrial hiking around Melide and the highway hiking outside of O Coto. Luckily there were bus stops frequently along today's route. "Hop on here," he said circling a town on my map. " Hop off here. Three Euros."

Wooden horreo is one of the few non-stone ag buildings I see.

I followed his advice and walked super fast until the village and bus stop. I caught the 8am bus and rode happily up a busy highway and past a cement suburb of factories. There were few pilgrims hiking along the road. I jumped off past Melide and poured on the speed, not even feeling the weight of my pack. But here I was, thinking oh how fast I am, when a woman fifteen years my senior passed me in hyper-drive, uphill! Who was this hiking machine? For fun I matched her stride and the rhythm of her hiking sticks. Soon I was right behind her. For miles I shadowed her through villages, up and down slopes, and through fields. She finally pulled into a cafe for second breakfast, my first since I left Palas de Rei before dawn when nothing was open.

Francoise!

I joined her for a meal and my morning Coke ( I can't stomach coffee) and we were soon good friends. It's how the Camino works! We hiked the rest of the day together- talking about our hike, where we started, sharing stories. She got my sad dog story.

Happy visit with a friendly lab!

By mid-day I had completed almost 25 miles walked. With a good hiking partner it's easy to forget the pain or boredom and let miles roll by. I've been in almost constant pain with some arthritis in my mid-spine the whole trip. Yoga, ibuprofen, and hot showers have helped , but during a long hike with a heavy backpack, sometimes it's all I can do to concentrate on anything else but my back. Hiking with Frances made me forget. I thoroughly enjoyed today's marathon hike! We decided to stay at the Xunta albergue in Santa Irene. What a fun day together!

Everywhere flowers set out.

New Holland!