Day 27: Villafranca Bierzo to Herrerias

My feet felt much better after a day of rest, so I decided to taxi ahead 16 kilometers and start my hike from Villafranca Bierzo. It rained. All day. It rained. The hike was along roads almost the whole way to my target town of Herrerias, but with wild rivers running on the opposite side of the road it was pleasant enough.

Greta was my hiking partner for part of the day. She was fast!

There were long sections of trail where I chose to hike alone. The towns were lined up one after the other along the road reminding me of very small Port Deposit towns from home. Logging, iron and metal working, agricultural fields and pastures, and plenty of pilgrim services were found in each village. There was a lady behind me who singing off key to her tunes. I kept trying to lose her, but everytime I ducked into a cafe or park thinking she would pass me, she would slow down. Rule Eight: Don't Sing Out Loud for Twelve Miles!

A tiny church founded by St. Francis.

Lots of road walk-in through tiny towns. 

Tempting. 

At a Casa Rural in Herrerias.

The rain kept coming and I kept walking. The tiny iron forge town of Herrerias was at the end of the road and I had pre-booked a room at a casa rural. I wasn't sure how many beds the albergues might have in this small place, and besides, I craved the quiet of my own space, a long interrupted nap, and a private bathroom. For just a few euro more I decided it was what needed to rest up for the big climb the next day to Cebriero!

Day 26: Forced Rest Day with Donuts and Monty Python

After yesterday's rain slog on the long rocky descent, I took my shredded feet to a handsome doctor who smiled sweetly as he pulled layers of skin from ..... well, I'll stop there because some of you are eating. He then applied the same stuff that Compede is made of, except cut it to custome-fit my situation. A stiff wrap of tape and orders to rest for the day kept me close to the Hotel Des Templarios, but not off my feet. Two also-limping rest day companions and I hobbled to the Castille de la Templar for a visit! We hobbled, wobbled, and shuffled up the drawbridge.

My first castle visit!

Jacob, from Germany, who I've been trailing pretty much the whole way, had pulled a groin muscle. He doesn't speak English, but he made me laugh out loud with his German version of Monty Python's best lines from Holy Grail. I could make out perfectly "You shall not pass!" and the bit about needing a shrubbery. As I admired the Templar knights in the Northwest Tower, he slapped me on the back with "Nee! Nee!"

These guys were just standing around.

The rain was coming down again and pilgrims on rest day or on their way through, began to huddle under everything eave or indoors at the Templar Library, which is where I was enjoying illuminated manuscripts and world maps from the Middle Ages. Michele from Scotland who I hiked with many days ago, came by and alerted me to a donut shop. "Rule Number Five: Never walk past a donut or pastry shop unless it is closed." We've been working on a Camino Rule Book since we met back in Pamplona. Rule Number One states that a pilgrim must never complain, because someone else has it worse. Rule Number Two: Do not look lovingly and longingly at a taxi or bus.

Exhibition from the Templar Library - oy, would I love to work in the archives here!

Another wounded friend wandered up. He'd twisted his ankle on the decent yesterday, but he's an Olympic biathalete so carried his injury well. Since the Orlando killings, he's been one of many European hikers who have been explaining how guns are regulated in countries where guns are part of the culture. Here in the castle, he was schooling me in medieval weaponry. "That is for hurling giant flaming balls of rock at castle walls. This is for bashing in the heads of enemies scaling ladders. This is for pouring boiling oil on approaching invaders." God, we are a violent lot!

Tau Cross above the main gate.

So, the Templars were one of many Holy Orders given permission by Church leaders to organize, recruit, and carry out missions to fight the Moors, Crusade, protect pilgrims, protect and defend church properties. There are still a few of the Holy Orders around, most famous being the Holy Order of Santiago whose mission it is to protect the city and cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St. James and his companions are buried. The Templars were infamous, however, and in their time there was no other order of fighting monks and lay fighters quite like them. They enjoyed immense popularity and stood firm on the teachings of Christ, except the bit about not killing people. Over time the Templars became so powerful and so influential that they threatened the authority of the Vatican. Politics being much the same then as now, there was a controversial disbanding by Rome of these dedicated knights. Many people swear that the order continues on in secret, against Church demands to dissolve. There is a lot of legend wrapped up in all of this.

A study for Guernica by Picasso blew me away.

Everybody moved through the castle, along its high defensive walks, climbing towers, and admiring the exhibitions at their own pace. The rain continued to fall so I found the arts and letters archives and settled in. Soon I came across a study by Picasso of the bombing of Guernica. I was transfixed, recalling a story told to me by a fellow pilgrim many weeks ago about losing a great uncle and other family in this unspeakable crime. I couldn't pull myself away.

Ponferrada from the ramparts.

I think I would like to make another Rule, I thought, and found Michele looking at dragons in a Natural History book of 1225. " What Rule are we up to?" "Seven or eight, I think." " I propose a Rule that states that pilgrims should take up the cause of non-violence as an after-Camino commitment." "That's an excellent Rule!" We left the castle in another burst of rain. Fortunately for us the donut shop was directly across from the main gate and we hobbled in that direction.

Do Not Break The Rule!