Day 10: Najera to Santo Domingo

After the twenty mile trek yesterday into the red cliff town of Najera, I feeling a bit slow and ouchy today. Trying to avoid a shin splint, I took it slower and gawked at the red rock formations, the red grapevine soil, and the red hills.

Wet from last night's thunderstorms, the red clay soil colors the air.

Fourteen miles to the city of Santo Domingo. There were new people among those pilgrims who had travelled a long way together. I learned that Najera is a drop-in point for some package deal companies that pre-attange everything for a five to ten day walk. Three older Italian men passed me at a fast clip, all dressed the same, same hats, same packs, poles, jackets. They hadn't quite figured out the cadence of the hiking poles and they tripped a lot.  They were a package deal, my hiking friend from Milano explained.

White wagtail.

Town limit marker, 13th century.

Red everything.

We crossed valley and hill terrain, rolling along until second breakfast at Azorfa when I realized I hadn't had first breakfast! I was so hungry! The people in these small rural towns operate small bars that turn into breakfast cafes for pilgrims 

and many order a beer along with their egg and potatoes. 

Coming into Santo Domingo I remembered I had laundry hanging off my pack that included underwear. Hmm. I stopped to put it away and a pilgrim passed me and said "Nice undies!" I looked up and saw it was a Camino friend from way back in Zubiri when my first outbreak of blisters happened in a downpour. We laughed about our shuffle, limp, and gait. We walked into the old city together, hobbling and laughing.

For those of you following this blog day by day, thanks for reading.  I'm writing this on a small 7" tablet and haven't quite figured out how to manage font size and corrections. Sorry for inconsistent type. I plan to add more photos when I get home, and will update posts from my journal notes. At the end if the day I've been really too tired to do each day justice, and I hope you will check back over the summer for more!

Wifi access is everywhere except for the most remote rural ghost owns, and there are lot of them. I haven't come to an albergue or pension, however, that doesn't have wifi or a public square hotspot. I've had no need to even turn on my phone.

One note to those reading who have concerns for our safety or are fearful of foreigners - I have never felt safer,except in my home mountains of Pennsylvania. Crime is extremely low. There are no guns, except for those used by hunters. People here do not understand the American obsession with gun rights, and they are equally appalled at the level of violence we consider normal in the U.S.
I often wonder as I hike along, how our society could learn from the cultures who walk and host the Camino experience.

There are many American students walking this month. Some from Texas A & M and others from Ole Miss. I've had the pleasure of walking with them as they string out in small groups for each days hike. To a person, including faculty, these American hikers are grateful for the kindnesses shown by the people along The Way. One student, Luke, mentioned to me that he thought it was a good idea to offer this trip as a semester abroad experience if for no other reason, than to "get rid of our arrogance." I agree 100%.