The Feast of San Juan is this weekend to celebrate the town's patron saint. He didn't care for Church bullshit which is probably why the Fiesta also includes a running of the bulls and and big bullfight. I'm staying just one more night then catching a train to Leon, but this is why I'm staying! Running of the bulls!
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| We all claimed rail space before the crowds gathered. |
Many, many pilgrims stayed on as I did, and many others taxied back from points further ahead on the Camino. Everyone gathered behind the steel fencing as the clanging bell of San Juan announced the beginning of the Fiesta weekend.
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| Families gathered for annual pictures, dressed in crest colors. |
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| Dozens of small bands played raucous music to get people hyped up! |
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| The streets got fuller and fuller! |
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| Kids were a big part of every group. |
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| All the bands gathered at then spilled from the plaza at San Juan's! |
Just when we thought the plaza in front of San Juan's couldn't hold another drummer, trumpeter, flag waver, or parade marcher, a huge boom - the town cannon - was fired! The mass of colors came marching out singing, dancing, banging drums, and then another boom! The streets cleared as the truck carrying the bulls came around our corner. People applauded the bulls from the rails, balconies, church steps, albergue doorway! The truck made its way down narrow streets as men closed all the gates, tightening metal posts into the ground with wood wedges. The clanking of gates and clunking of barriers got everyone excited! Runners lined the street in their expensive running shoes and colorful sashes. This is a serious sport for many young men. They take this as seriously as some would take football or baseball.
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| The final gates are secured. |
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| The bulls arrive! |
The town got quiet. Another round from the town cannon and another, then I held on tight to my metal fence rail as I watched waves of runners come tearing around the corner. Chasing them were the bulls! People cheered for both runners and bulls!
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| The runners! |
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| This when I held on tight to my top rail! |
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| Champion young bulls, the stuff of bullfighting legend |
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| Shit just got real. Hang on the the rail! |
It was over in minutes. The bulls and runners went all the to the arena leaving everyone gasping and wondering "Was that it?!" For me it was a real thrill, and knowing a little about bullfighting and the traditions of ritualized war, it was a dream come true. I had become interested in the idea of the art of bullfighting from my old college friend Annalise who I hope to connect with while I'm in Spain. It was Annalise who took the time with me to explain the history and traditions behind the bullfight, rooted in Roman times but made unique to Spain by the late Middle Ages. I won't go into whether I am pro or con bullfight, as it's a hot animal rights issue in many places. But suffice it to say I was thrilled today to witness just a small part of this thousand year old tradition. I wish the picadors, bullfighters, and the bulls a good fight, though we all know the outcome for the bulls. The bull breeders and their prized animals are regional legends, SoS of them going back tens of generations. The bullfighters are national heroes, the horses and picadors are skilled and highly rregarded by all. Toro! Toro!
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