Griffon and Stork: Day 4: Pamplona to Obanos

From the hurrying crowds of morning rush hour in Pamplona to the wind-driven summit of Alto de Pedron, my pace and spirits were good until about 1pm when I hit the physical wall. But until then, the walk had been pleasant and cheerful. Singing pilgrims, meeting up with Camino family at each rest, a beautiful day. I was most aware of the bells. They rang from every village and marked the hour and quarter hours, reminding us all the time does not wait.

Pilgrim rush hour leaving Pamplona

With the high peaks of the Pyrenees behind me, the landscape became a sea of rolling hills and impressive ridges. The large group of walking pilgrims began to string out. Small hiking parties form. There are so many elders on this trail, I feel really young - until they outpace me, and I feel silly.

Wind towers line the summit ridge of Alto de Perdon

The trail got steeper and steeper as the Camino approached the summit of Alto de Pedron where during the Middle Ages millions of pilgrims streamed over the ridge towards Santiago. Many died in this area, and many of the small towns contain graveyards filled with the exhausted souls for whom the Alto was too much.

Alto de Pedron memorial

Coming down off the summit was painful. My blister from the big rainstorm a few days ago was screaming with every footfall on a washout of large river cobbles. I was in tears. Then I saw a woman from Australia going so slowly and in obvious pain. I asked if she needed me to carry her pack. She said no, but that her knees and hips were killing her. I stayed with her for two painful hours, and was sorry I had thought so much about a few blisters.

Some enterprising pilgrims decided to make art from the cobbles.

Many pilgrims veered off for the first albergue they could find. I kept hobbling along alone. Hours later I shuffled into the outskirts of Obanos and stopped at the country house albergue with a kind host and a shady porch. I could barely stand. But she showed me to a private room in her home that had its own bathroom and shower! Spirits lifted!!

Elysia my host at her country house albergue

This had been a tough day and my head was in a bad place. I realized that this hike would be about endurance and patience as well as the history and horses. But Elysia saved my day. The kindness of our hospitalier, the smiles from villagers ( and a hearty 'Buen Camino!'), and that really cold beer before a home-cooked dinner would serve as all the fuel I needed to recenter my focus.